Whiplash, Body Bags, and Paper Coffins

Why I went to Seoul last weekend

안녕! It’s Ari, your chatty Korean friend and weekend reminder. 🎉 Today’s newsletter covers a healthy kimbap recipe, what happened at my grandmother’s funeral, and why I went to Seoul last weekend. Let’s dive in!

Cabbage Kimbap

Cabbage Kimbap (정희원의 저속노화)

Recently, The Washington Post published an article titled How Korea’s Kimbap Went from Comfort Food to Global Sensation. Seeing this reminded me that I had to share an easy and healthy kimbap or gimbap recipe with you.

At first glance, kimbap may seem like a healthy meal, but most versions are actually high in calories and sodium. Every ingredient— including the rice—is seasoned with salt, making it a food that many in Korea try to avoid while dieting. But recently, celebrity doctor Jeong Hee-won, the same person who introduced the mashed tofu with gim I shared earlier, revealed a lighter, less salty alternative: cabbage kimbap.

Not only is this kimbap healthy, but it’s also incredibly easy and quick to make. It’s the perfect light and refreshing meal to brighten up your weekend. Check out the recipe below, and if you need a visual guide, be sure to watch the cooking video. (The cooking starts at 18:18.)

For 2 rows of kimbap, (1-2 servings)

Ingredients:

• 100g cabbage (thinly sliced)

• 100g cucumber (thinly sliced)

• 2-3 crab sticks (shredded)

• 4 perilla leaves

• 2 sheets of gim (dried seaweed)

• 2 bowls of cooked brown rice

• Sesame oil

Seasonings:

• For the rice: A pinch of salt, sesame seeds, and sesame oil

• For the cabbage:

  • 1 tbsp vinegar

  • ½ tbsp sugar

  • A pinch of salt

Instructions:

1. Prepare the cabbage: Thinly slice the cabbage and mix it with vinegar, sugar, and salt. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then squeeze out excess moisture.

2. Season the rice: Mix the cooked rice with a pinch of salt, sesame seeds, and sesame oil.

3. Prepare the fillings: Thinly slice the cucumber and shred the crab sticks.

4. Assemble the kimbap:

   • Place a sheet of gim on a bamboo mat or clean surface.

   • Spread a thin layer of rice evenly over the gim, leaving about an inch of space at the top.

   • Place perilla leaves on top of the rice, followed by cabbage, cucumber, and crab sticks.

   • Roll tightly, pressing gently to secure the shape.

5. Apply sesame oil: Before slicing the kimbap into bite-sized pieces, lightly brush or rub a small amount of sesame oil over the surface of the seaweed. (Only the top, not the entire surface) This enhances the flavor and gives the kimbap a subtle shine. Bon appétit! 😋

What Happened at My Grandmother’s Funeral

(The following is the first part of Chapter 2 from my short read, I Like You, but Not Your iPhone.)

Last summer, my grandmother passed away after battling dementia for years. Relatives from all over gathered to say their final goodbyes to her, creating a somber yet familiar atmosphere. During one of the quieter moments at the two-day funeral, when most visitors had gone and only the younger relatives in their 20s and 30s were chatting, a male relative suddenly blurted out to me, “I like you, but not your iPhone,” catching me completely off guard.

Before I could respond, a female relative chimed in, “What’s wrong with using an iPhone?” He replied, “A woman who uses an iPhone is a big no for me.” Before he could elaborate, we were summoned by older relatives to help greet guests, and the conversation was cut short.

Even though I didn’t get to hear his full explanation, I already knew exactly what he meant…

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✨ What the heck did he mean by that?
To find out—and to dive deeper into the stories shaping modern South Korea—grab your copy 👉here!

Whiplash, Body Bags, and Paper Coffins

Last weekend, I went to Seoul to participate in one of the largest protests happening in the country. As many of you know, South Korea is still dealing with the aftermath of the president’s illegal martial law declaration last December. Since then, protests have taken place every weekend—and recently, they’ve been happening every day across the country. The biggest demonstration is held near Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, drawing massive crowds demanding justice.

When I arrived at Seoul Station, I was immediately met with A Cup of Politics, 👆 a progressive YouTuber known for fiery speeches and live-streamed protests. People gathered around him, dancing to the loud music blasting from speakers. Among them was someone in a blue bunny costume, a balloon-like outfit that added a surreal yet amusing touch to the scene. Seeing all of this in person was an exciting start to the day.

As I made my way toward the main protest site, I saw food trucks lined up, distributing snacks to protesters. These trucks are funded by people who support the movement but cannot physically attend the protests, either because they live too far from Seoul or because of work obligations. I saw one truck handing out tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) and another distributing mandu (dumplings). One truck even had a sign indicating it was sent by Korean immigrants in Philadelphia, U.S.

Flag bearers’ zone at the protest site. They gather and occasionally perform synchronized flag-waving. (My photo)

Almost all roads near Gyeongbokgung Palace 👆 were blocked off, turning the streets into a sea of people. Large LED screens were set up at multiple points so that attendees could see the speeches and performances happening on the main stage, no matter where they stood. Speakers were placed throughout the area, allowing everyone to hear the chants, music, and speeches loud and clear. As I got closer to the main stage, the crowd thickened, and the atmosphere felt more and more like a festival. Flags waved in the air, and people chanted in unison.

On stage, representatives from opposition parties and ordinary citizens gave passionate speeches, calling for the Constitutional Court to uphold Yoon Seok-yeol’s impeachment as soon as possible. Throughout the event, performances by choral groups and singers added to the atmosphere. (Check out the video below.) At one point, the crowd sang along to March for the Beloved—a song commemorating the victims of the 1980 Gwangju Uprising. The mood turned solemn, and I found myself choking up as I sang along.

But the protest wasn’t just about grief and anger—it was also about resilience. A striking moment came when the crowd chanted “Remove! Remove! Remove Yoon Seok-yeol!” while the K-pop song Whiplash by aespa played in the background. The contrast between the solemn moments and the almost celebratory energy was surreal. The mix of emotions was overwhelming—rage, sorrow, hope, and determination all blending together.

The protest, which began in the afternoon, lasted late into the night and concluded with a march through the streets. That day, nearly one million people had gathered to demand justice.

More and more people gathered, filling the streets as the day went on. (My photo)

So why did I go all the way to Seoul to participate in the protest? And why did nearly a million others take to the streets? The answer lies in what happened just a week before.

Despite facing an impeachment trial and a long list of serious charges, President Yoon was recently illegally released from prison—an event many South Koreans see as nothing short of a prison break. His release wasn’t the result of a standard legal procedure; it is widely suspected to be a coordinated effort between a judge and high-ranking prosecutors loyal to him.

For many South Koreans, this was a breaking point. The protests, which had already been massive, exploded in size. The fear that Yoon might return to power grew stronger. But just when people thought things couldn’t get worse, shocking new revelations emerged after his release.

One report revealed that the military had been conducting highly provocative drills last year along the Northern Limit Line (NLL)—the maritime border with North Korea—seemingly pushing the limits of engagement. During a briefing attended by Apache pilots, an order was reportedly given to “increase altitude so that the enemy can see you,” indicating that “an extremely unusual operation was carried out just before the declaration of martial law—so much so that even the pilots felt their lives were at risk.” The fact that North Korea did not retaliate against these apparent provocations—seemingly designed to escalate tensions and justify martial law—is considered by many to be nothing short of a miracle.

Another report emerged that the military had stockpiled an unusually high number of body bags and even inquired about mass-producing paper coffins. In December 2024—the month martial law was declared—the military’s body bag inventory suddenly skyrocketed to 4,940, an increase of nearly 3,000 in just a month. Around the same time, officials contacted manufacturers to assess how many paper coffins could be produced and transported at a time. These chilling details have raised grave concerns about what the Yoon administration was truly preparing for.

Meanwhile, the Constitutional Court is stalling to rule on his impeachment. The discussion is dragging on much longer than expected—the ruling was widely anticipated last week, yet the court hasn’t even announced a date for the decision, let alone the ruling itself. The longer they stall, the more people worry that they might overturn the impeachment and allow him to return to office.

I’ll be protesting again this weekend, this time in my local town—because I can’t sleep at night if I don’t. If there’s one good thing about all of this, it’s the sense of connection I feel with fellow protesters on the street. It’s strange to find such deep solidarity and comfort from total strangers, but the feeling of knowing I’m not alone in this shitstorm is powerful. This relentless community will keep fighting—through sleepless nights and chanting in the streets—until we win. Wish us luck!

Thanks for reading! 🥰 No mini Korean lesson today 🙏 If you enjoyed this newsletter, you’ll love my book, I Like You, but Not Your iPhone! 📖✨ It’s available now! 👇

If you’d like to support my work in other ways, you can always buy me a coffee! ☕️ I’ll be back next week with more. 안녕!